We woke up at 6am on the 16th and had just time to pack before being met by our taxi at 6.30am. The bus left at around 7.30 and the trip took bloody ages, over possibly the most devastated main road in Nepal. We arrived at the raft departure point at 1pm, 1½ hours late, and were somewhat discouraged to find 17 people and one raft. It was nearly 4pm by the time a second raft arrived and we set off.

Once underway, all teething troubles were forgotten as we hit white water almost immediately and were soaked to the skin. We had a fairly exciting trip till our tea stop at around 5.30pm. Tents were all set up and the food was good, eaten under the stars (and satellites) by the light of simple lamps made from candles stuck into boxes filled with sand, and screened by polythene bags and sticks.

Next morning we had porridge and eggs for breakfast and set off at 10am (after a delay caused by a bus overturning beside the bridge at Mugling. One person killed, we were told.)

Again we hit rapids immediately, and one of the English girls, Sally, was thrown out, which all added to the fun. During the day the rapids became less exciting as we neared the Terai, but lunchtime was enlivened by a film crew rolling up, complete with villain in yellow wellies, black shirt and bald nut. We watched their first couple of takes then pushed off. We waved at the crew from the middle of the river and were only a little surprised when they all waved back.

We pulled in at the bank finally at 4pm after a bit of jumping off a rock. It really was excellent fun, probably the closest yet to the kind of atmosphere that prevails on diving trips.

Our translation between rafting and safari was none too smooth. Our rafting guide flagged down a southbound bus, which turned out to be the Death Bus from the morning's crash, empty apart from mud and broken glass. He didn't, however, give them any instructions on where to drop us off. The bus crew thought we wanted the Chitwan Hotel, and in the end they got directions from the manager there (after he'd failed to persuade me to spend the night there. They never miss a chance.)

So we got to Tandi, where our ox cart awaited. This must be one of the most uncomfortable modes of travel ever invented, especially with nine people on board, plus packs. However I suppose it's worse for the oxen. The trip was 1½ hours, including a river crossing, and we arrived after dark, to find that our room (basically a mud hut) was surprisingly pleasant, with clean bedding and a mosquito net. The meal was a traditional Nepali Dal Bhat Tarkari - rice, dhal, vegetable curry and potatoes in butter, with a semolina-type thing called "aloa" for sweet. The drums from next door lent an African atmosphere to the scene, which sat well with the pictures of rhino and elephants around the walls.

We met a few of our fellow-adventurers, and heard their stories of being chased by rhino, or, conversely, not seeing any. We also had the news that we were going to get up at 4.30 the next morning for our elephant trek, to try to ensure that we did see something.

So after a quick cup of tea we staggered outside in the almost-black of 5.15am to see three enormous shapes standing patiently next to the platform - our elephants (which I'd heard the previous night trumpeting loudly, along with monkeys chattering, dogs howling and other typical country noises). Each elephant carried four tourists and one "mahout" - elephant boy. We climbed a ladder to the boarding platform, and stepped on to the elephant's back. It was one of those parts of the trip where you think, "Good grief, is this really happening?"

Once the elephants set off, we realised it was surprisingly comfortable. It's a very slow gait, not at all the bump, bump, bump that you get from a horse, and you have a fantastic view. The only discomfort was from the wooden edge of the platform under the thigh.

It wasn't long before we did see rhino - two of them in a muddy puddle about 10 feet away. Unfortunately I had the telephoto lens on, and they didn't hang around for me to change to the wide angle, which I could have used in that light. We didn't see anything else, but we must have stumbled on something, because our elephant and the one in front suddenly started rumbling and shaking, like a tiger growling, and then let out an ear-splitting trumpeting sound in protest at the mahout trying to urge them on. I don't know what frightened them but it left us feeling nervous.

On our way back through the villages the elephants repeated the performance whenever they saw a dog, so perhaps this is a clue.

Compared to the elephant trek, everything else that day was a bit of an anticlimax. We did see one crocodile from the (overloaded and unsteady) dugout canoe, but it didn't pose for photos. Neither did the enormous black and white stork-type bird which I've christened the "waiter-bird" because of its plumage.

The rest of the time we walked through the jungle. This was slightly worrying because of the leeches (one wriggled through Cathy's sock to attach itself to her ankle) but was fascinating in the diversity of plant growth, insects (some enormous, red beetles), smells and sounds. Of large animals there was no sign, except for some monkeys up a tree (rhesus monkeys, which we saw more of at Swayambhu temple in Kathmandu, and "long-tailed monkeys". These have a black face, a white mane, grey bodies and a long, prehensile tail. We saw more of them from the raft) and two spotted deer glimpsed through some intervening undergrowth.

For tea we had a weird mixture of vegetarian cutlet, fried rice, potato and pumpkin, and then we retired to bed, expecting to wake up early the next morning (the 19th) for our bird-watching and village visit.

All through the night it poured with rain, and there was no let-up the next day. There was a unanimous thumbs-down to the morning's planned activities, and we contented ourselves with a lie-in before breakfast.

After breakfast we had another lovely 1½ hour ox cart ride back to the road, during which we were soaked, and then a long bus journey to Pokhara, arriving in the dark. I didn't notice much, having by now a stinking cold, but there was a lovely glimpse of blue sky over the hills just before the night shut down completely.

Cathy and I stayed briefly at the "Hotel Super" but left this morning on grounds of noise and indifferent food. We're now in the "Anzuk Hotel" - in a "common room" - 3 beds with toilet and shower around the corner (Rs50 - Rs25 each/night). Breakfast this morning was Rs28 for porridge and milk, French toast and a pot of hot chocolate.

By the time we'd finished breakfast the sky had cleared sufficiently for us to see one of Annapurna's four peaks - very close and very clear. Unfortunately since then the Himalayas have remained shrouded in cloud.

The lower hills around the lake are attractively green, and in fact with the lake in front look so like the hills around Loch Ard or Loch Lubnaig that for a moment I was completely disorientated and imagined myself back in Scotland. This was heightened by the conversation of two men behind me, about Killin and Ben Lawyers.

So, it's 3.50pm and probably time I was heading back, since I have now the only key to the padlock on our room. Lunch has been very satisfactory, although, as the blue book says, more expensive and not as good as Kathmandu - lasagne with aubergines - Rs30, 2 hot lemons at Rs4 each, and a cheesecake, which was very nice, for Rs16 (I think).

Sitting in "Don't Cross Me By" which appears to me to have the best selection of good quality cakes and pies in Pokhara. We've ordered apple crumble and custard, and I'm having a piece of brownie wrapped up for trekking tomorrow. We've just come from the "Sunny Garden" where I had an astonishing dish consisting of mashed potatoes, onion, spinach, cheese and mushroom. Wow. We were entertained by traditional Nepali dancing put on by adults and children, for which we forked out a rupee each. This is the first day of one of the most important festivals, and candles are burning everywhere. The effect is magical.

Briefly, our activities over the last couple of days have been: yesterday - eating, writing diary, boating (Rs10/hour). Today - cycling (Rs10/day) up to the Gandaki (government) hospital, saw the Seti river in its canyons and flats, watched an HS 748 landing and taking off (looks exciting) and saw the Devi Falls - Rs3 to see them, and quite unimpressive.

Moments later... We've been dreaming about apple crumble and custard since Delhi, and it was worth waiting for - YUM!

7pm and we're being entertained by the children of Naudanda who are singing and dancing by the light of hundreds of candles all round the village. They're also collecting sponds.

Our walk up here (I can't call it a trek and keep a straight face) was remarkably easy. Most of the way was on the level, with just one steep climb at the end from Suikhet. In the morning we had the best view yet of the mountains - Annapurna and Machapuchare. We passed through a couple of villages on the way, saw plenty of Sherpas, some with small groups of trekkers, and others who appeared to be simply supplying the shops and hotels in the villages. Our lunch break was ¾ of the way up the steep part, overlooking the river valley and a pool where a buffalo was bathing. The chocolate brownie was delicious.

(Time for the anti-malaria pills again...) Our hotel in Naudanda is the Hotel Mountain Lodge. It has doubles at Rs10 and Rs15, with clean, earth floors and a menu as long as your arm. Last night we dined on onion soup, Swiss rosti and banana fritters, and it was all tasty, particularly he fritters, which were light, fluffy and hot. So much for our (my?) fears of having nothing to eat but lentils and rice. Obviously you have to get much further from Pokhara before this becomes the case.

We woke this morning to mist and a steady drizzle, but already (it's 8.20am) the rain's stopped, the mist's clearing, and I don't think we'll be delayed.

It was a stiff walk down from Naudanda. We set off late - 9.45am - and it was 4pm before we made it to "Don't Cross Me By" for more of that lovely apple crumble and custard. I added to my quota of pleasure by having chicken and mushroom crepes, quite possibly the best I've had since Jersey in January ‘84.

Cathy and I are having a very lazy day on a boat on the lake at Pokhara (Rs40/day). I've written letters and postcards and Cathy's finally finished Clive James' "Unreliable Memoirs". I'm now watching dragonflies mating. They do it in mid-air, like this:

which I think is pretty remarkable.

2pm. Now back at "Don't Cross Me By" for lunch. We've taken our paddles with us, to ensure that our boat is still there on our return. I've just changed £10 of my emergency cash, since otherwise I'll be stealing from the budgeted amounts for Thailand and the rest (The rate was Rs36.3 to the £).

Five days:

• Day 1 (Oct 20th) - crows, the messengers of death, are honoured.
• Day 2 - in honour of dogs, the guardians of the dead. The dogs have garlands of flowers.
• Day 3 - in honour of cows. This was the day we set of on our trek, and we saw many cows with circles of paint, garlands and other decorations. This day is also called Deepavali, the Festival of Lights, and all households must be lit by lamps or candles to the Goddess of wealth.
• Day 4 - no mention in the book (but lots of dancing and singing last night).
• Day 5 - Bhai Tika (24th, ie today) - for brothers and sisters.

Lunch is chicken and mushroom crepe and garlic steak, split between Cathy and I. Delicious! Steak very tender and tasty.

Beautiful sunrise on the Himalayas this morning, over Annapurna and Machapuchare. We saw ranges to the east that we'd never seen before for clouds.

Breakfast in the Hotel Garden indicated that it was a good hotel. We were very rushed, but the toast and jam and all our drinks came very quickly and were very good. Afterwards I bought a big lump of cheese (200g for Rs20) to go along with the croissants.

By a combination of this good advance planning, good luck and the generosity of the guy in the seat next to mine, this turned out to be the most enjoyable bus journey so far. My neighbour gave me "Thunderball" when he'd read it, and I completed the entire book on the trip. I also had two satisfying meals of croissants and cheese, then apple strudel, and rounded it off at the top of the last hill before Kathmandu.

The only glitch came at this point, when the police saw a busload of white tourists and guessed that their chances of a big drugs bust were good. So they turfed us all off the bus and one of them led a sniffer dog on board. This hound knew its job. It made a beeline for the back of the bus where we'd been eating, and poked around hopefully for crumbs. Then it sat on Mary's seat and smiled at us through the open window. Meanwhile the other half of the duo was up on the roof. Rolling back the tarpaulin for maximum effect he trampled all over our baggage while presumably using X-ray vision to search for the stash. However none was found and, hopes of promotion dashed, they left us to finish our trip.

We're presently eating in the "Paradise" Vegetarian Restaurant (attached to the Annapurna Lodge). It's a real find. My plain old sweet & sour vegetables was a feast, with a huge mound of tasty brown rice (first I've had in Asia); Cathy's mushrooms and spinach in garlic and buttered parsley potatoes was very tasty and Elaine's cheese balls and mash were large and very cheesy. I had hot chocolate, which tasted (delightfully) of evaporated milk. My taste for this must be a hangover from childhood. Cathy hates it, so if I buy tins of it they'll be safe.

Yesterday was spent wandering around Kathmandu, changing money, finding a new place to stay (Annapurna Lodge - Rs70/double - very clean, light, spacious and pleasant) and, of course, eating. High point was a visit to the American Express office where there were two letters waiting for me (and one each for Mary and Elaine). Cathy proved her resourcefulness by palming both letters and passing them to Mary to take outside, while keeping up a distracting patter ("Oh, there's nothing here. We could come back tomorrow...")

One letter was from Mum and Dad (written 11th October) and the other from Grandma and Grandpa. Lots of news, some good, some not so good. Donald's arrived in Kansas (but I still haven't got his address); my tax rebate was £388; Dad's retiring from ICI in a year (good or bad?); Mum's lost her driving licence for another 2 years [for health reasons]; Keith Logie's had a road accident (but is expected to recover); Grandpa has lumbago; the Mod's on in Stirling, and so on.

We're now back in Kumari's, sort of the Last Supper before Elaine goes. My guts are playing up again, so it's mash and don't stray too far from the loo. Cathy's drawing a farewell picture for Elaine.

First day as a threesome. Morning spent wandering around Durbar Square. Narayan's for lunch a let down because no electricity and the waiter's stroppy. Still, they have banana cream pie again. Last night we tried Mom's Health Food and for Rs19 I had the smallest cheese and tomato sandwich I've ever seen. Just as well I wasn't hungry. (Tasted nice, though.)

In Bhaktapur. Travelled here by Chinese trolleybus (Rs125) after about an hour spent at the post office sending off the last of my films, letters and postcards. We're in the Nyatapola Restaurant, where Cathy and Mary tried the much lauded Bhaktapur curd and found it not to their taste (and not as good as the stuff at the Annapurna Lodge). We do, however, have a good view of the Nyatapola Temple.

6.45pm. Too early to go to sleep, Cathy and Mary both hors de combat and I'm bored. We had a buying spree today - bought a singing bowl and a tiger moving game for Rs440, a yak rug for Rs100 and collected Cathy's T-shirt. Had nothing to eat after breakfast but a brownie and a coke at Narayan's at lunchtime, and two croissants, some yak cheese and an apple strudel for tea. Nothing much to do now but read Clive James. So far this trip I've read:

plus National Geographic, Time, various guidebooks and newspapers. Oh well, here goes with C.J.

Slept badly last night, and grumbling stomach heralded another day of squits. Mary and Cathy still not 100%, and I've spent almost the whole day in or near bed, venturing outside only briefly to buy water and a book ("The Shepherd" by Frederick Forsyth. I've finished it. It's a very touching story. I've also finished Clive James.)

So our last couple of days in Kathmandu have not gone according to plan. I'd wanted to get out into the valley, see other temples, hills and villages, and most of all I was looking forward to a big steak for tea tonight. Tomorrow we fly out to Bangkok, and I think you could say we've ended Nepal with not a bang but with a whimper.

I feel the trip's really been in two parts - a long, leisurely look at India and Nepal, followed by a mad dash through South-East Asia. Let's hope our travel arrangements run smoothly, and the budget holds out. But most of all let's hope we're well from now on.

P.S. A visit from the police this evening to check our visas. Policeman: "Give me your passports." Cathy: "Please." (They smiled.)